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Printing Large Stuff - tables, chairs, etc.

Re: Printing Large Stuff - tables, chairs, etc.

Postby Awesomeness » Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:03 pm

davecove wrote:I think your costing math is off... a 20" chair leg with a diameter of 1" has a volume of 15.7in3.


Yes, you're correct.

By all means, it would be interesting to see someone do it. The changes necessary to make a large format 3D printer really turn it into a different type of beast, the way the engine in your car and the giant one-cylinder engine on an oil well pump are technically related, but have totally different design constraints and results.

The drastic cost, time, and design differences mean you really have to have a reason to do this. You're not simply "making it bigger, to make bigger things". You're going to be spending several thousand dollars, and hundreds of hours of designing and troubleshooting, to build it, and then the things it makes are very expensive themselves (relatively). That reason may just be passion for tinkering, but it seems most likely that it would be bankrolled by an art project, or some specific necessary quirk of the 3D printing process that makes it especially suitable for making the things you want made.

I've been into competitive costuming for several years, and have always wanted to have a giant 3D printer. It would be SO EASY to just design all my costume parts in CAD, hit print, and come back a couple days later. I've found it much smarter so far to use pretty much every other method than 3D printing (e.g. CNC machining, vacuforming, fiberglassing, sculpting + casting + molding, etc.)

If you build one, post up a build log. I'll be interested to follow along.
If you don’t have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it over?
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Re: Printing Large Stuff - tables, chairs, etc.

Postby davecove » Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:18 pm

I have a build log going here: http://whereismyflyingcar.info/?cat=3 The rest of the site should reveal why I am interested in this.

At this point in the build I have become concerned about how to make sure the tops of the gantry rails are co-planar. I don't want the gantry pitching and rolling because the tops of the rails don't occupy a consistent horizontal plane along their entire widths and breaths. I figure I can get them very very parallel using a large square and a dial indicator to make sure the insides of the rails are equidistant along their entire lenghts, but making sure the tops occupy the same plane has me stumped.

I looked into using a 3-axis accelerometer on my Beaglebone Black, but the resolution was not fine enough to register the 43 arcseconds that a .01" rise over a 48" run would cause. Looking for more ideas...
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